This building in Tanum may not look like much, but it was built in 1663 as a roadside guesthouse and restaurant. Sven took me there for dinner in the early nineties. The interior made us feel like we had stepped back in time. Slanty wooden floors, low ceilings, vintage furniture and wallpaper, enameled woodstoves tucked into corners. The waitresses wore old-fashioned aprons, and the food was scrumptious. We returned a decade or two later with high expectations that a change in ownership dashed – the food no longer sang. Its cacophony almost drowned out the chorus of ghost-guests in the empty dining room. We returned a third time this past August with friends from France, after visiting the famous rock carvings and museum located nearby. Now, the restaurant offers an eat-as-much-as-you-want buffet. Located a half-hour’s drive from Stromstad, it remains a special place. If you listen closely, you can almost hear a carriage pulling up at the door to release travel-weary passengers and the whinny of its horses …